For this feature
we have enlisted the help of two of the oldest (that's in time
we have been friends and not age) friends of Dolls House Parade
- Roy & Mary Sherwood. Roy has been making fine English furniture
for a good many years and - believe it or not - was the very first
supplier to be "signed up" for her new venture when
Lyn opened Dolls House Parade in 1992. Not a bad way to start
off - with one of the countries leading makers as a supplier.
Roy & Mary have kindly provided the guidance for this feature
and agreed to pass on some of the secrets which they use in creating
such sought after furniture pieces.
The following information applies equally to hardwoods and softwoods
Furniture Finishing can be split into the following stages:
- Preparation
- Staining
- Sealing
- Finishing
Roy's Golden Rule; "the finish is only as good as
the preparation"
Preparation
The first thing which must be
done is to fill in the grain on the wood. We would recommend Rustins
Grain Filler (available at your local DIY store). This comes in
various colours such as natural, oak and mahogany. It is obviously
ideal to choose the colour that best matches the wood you are
using and the finished colour you require. However, this is not
vital as the colour can be altered later in the process.
Roy's Tip: If you are
building your furniture from scratch it is a good idea - and
much easier - to fill the timber first, i.e. when it is in plank
form.
The filler is best applied with
a lint free cloth. Always rub ACROSS the grain (not with it).
This ensures that the filler goes deep into the wood.
Leave it until it becomes
dry (it will have a powdery texture). The drying time should be
given on the tin of the product you are using.
Roy's Tip: Be patient
- let it dry fully.
Once it is dry the surface can
be rubbed down - always with the grain - with a piece of silicone
coated rubbing down paper (approximately 220 grit). Do not use
glass paper or sandpaper, as this will leave a fine layer of residue
on your work which is difficult to clean.
Roy's Tip: The numbers
on rubbing down paper work on the basis of the higher the number
the smoother the paper (and the finish) - so 220 grit paper
is used for preparation whereas 400 grit is finer and used for
finishing.
Continue to rub down until silky
to the touch and then remove the dust. A tack cloth can be used
after each sanding to remove dust. These can be purchased from
Dolls House Parade or your local hardware store.
Roy's Tip: To remove
the dust use a vacuum cleaner with the brush attachment. Simply
blowing it will not be good enough.
Repeat the process if necessary
until you are completely happy with the finish of the surface.
Staining
Now you are ready to
stain the wood. The stain and varnish should be applied in an
area, which is as dust free as possible. This will reduce the
amount of work you have to do
Roy's Tip: An easy way
to create your own "dust free workplace"
Go to the bathroom and
soak an old newspaper. Then lay the sheets out on the floor.
Turn on the shower (on full hot) and shut the door and windows
so that a good level of steam builds up. Then switch off the
water and let the steam clear and as the steam particles sink
to the floor (they are heavier than air) they will soak up dust
and deposit it on the newspaper. You will then be left with
a relatively dust free environment - ideal for staining and
varnishing.
Once again we would recommend
another Rustins product - this time Rustins Spirit Stain. Various
colours are available and can be bought at your local DIY store.
Spirit stain should be used because
it penetrates deeper into the timber and also dries quickly.
Roy's Tip: Do not use
water based stains as they will warp the timber and raise the
grain of your wood.
Mary's Tip: Stain should
be applied with a good quality flat paint brush. The best type
is an artist's brush and not a household or round child's brush.
Always build up the colour with
several thin coats of stain rather than fewer thick coats. This
produces a better and more even finish. Wipe off any surplus stain
between coats with a soft brush or tissue. Let each coat dry thoroughly
before applying the next one.
Roy's Tip: Be patient
- let it dry fully.
When you are applying stain it
is difficult to cover the whole piece in one go because you must
hold your item while you are working. The best way to deal with
this problem - without leaving finger marks - is to divide your
job into two. Stain half at a time. Wait until it dries then stain
the other half. However, always complete a full coat, i.e. 2 halves,
before starting the next, otherwise you will find it difficult
to get a match over the whole item.
Mary's Tip: Set yourself
a routine. I always split my item into two as follows: firstly
hold the sides and stain the top, bottom, back and inside; then
hold the top and bottom and stain the sides.
Two or three coats of stain
should be sufficient.
Roy's Tip: Be patient - let it dry. If the final coat
does not dry before you begin the next stage you will move the
stain.
Sealing
We would suggest using a small
pot of modelling varnish, i.e. Humbrol, as your sealer. Either
a satin or semi-matt finish will work well and give a clear finish.
If you prefer - French polish can also be used (available from
a DIY shop), but if this is used, remember your finish will be
slightly darker than with the varnish.
Both varnish and French polish
can be applied with a clean soft brush. It is always better to
use different brushes for each stage. However, if you are using
the same brush it must be cleaned thoroughly each time.
Lacquer can be used but is not
recommended. This is because it dries too quickly and may lift
the stain if not allowed to dry in the correct environment. The
professionals use lacquer - but it does require the right, specialist
tools and conditions.
Once the piece has been allowed
to dry properly the "nibs" must be rubbed down before
applying the next coat.
"What's a nib", I hear
you cry. Well, a nib is a small particle of dust or an air bubble
trapped in the varnish, which if left, will result in an uneven
surface to your finish. Use a piece of 400 grit paper to rub down
to a smooth finish. Once again use the vacuum cleaner to clear
the dust.
Finish
You are now nearly there!
With a soft (lint free)
cloth apply a small amount of good quality, wax furniture polish
- not spray polish. Let it dry and buff it up with a cloth. By
applying further coats of polish the level of gloss can be built
up as required.
Your piece of furniture should
now be ready to take pride of place in your dolls house.
Roy's Tip: Don't forget it can take just as long to finish
a piece of furniture as it does to make it.
We hope this feature has been
interesting and for those who make their own furniture pieces
the tips will enable you to achieve better results from your work.
For those who prefer to buy their furniture maybe next time you
look at a piece of Roy's work (or that of any other craftsman)
you will now appreciate the amount of skill and work that goes
into creating the finished article.
Don't forget - the work of Roy and Mary can be seen in our shops
and if you have any queries that have not been answered by this
feature please contact us on
Tel: 020 8295 0688 or Fax:
020 8295 1061
e-mail: enquiries@dhpf.co.uk
We will do our best to answer
your questions, but if necessary we can, once more, enlist the
help of Roy and Mary.
If you need any more help or
advice, or have any suggestions for topics you would like to see
featured in the future, or you have your own hints and tips you
would like to share with your fellow miniaturists, please e-mail
us at:
enquiries@dhpf.co.uk
