For this feature
we have enlisted the help of two of the oldest (that's in time
we have been friends and not age) friends of Dolls House Parade
- Roy & Mary Sherwood. Roy has been making fine English furniture
for a good many years and - believe it or not - was the very
first supplier to be "signed up" for her new venture
when Lyn opened Dolls House Parade in 1992. Not a bad way to
start off - with one of the countries leading makers as a supplier.
Roy & Mary
have kindly provided the guidance for this feature and agreed
to pass on some of the secrets which they use in creating such
sought after furniture pieces.
The following
information applies equally to hardwoods and softwoods
Furniture Finishing
can be split into the following stages:
- Preparation
- Staining
- Sealing
- Finishing
Roy's
Golden Rule "the finish is only as good as the preparation"
Preparation
The first thing
which must be done is to fill in the grain on the wood. We would
recommend Rustins Grain Filler (available at your local DIY store).
This comes in various colours such as natural, oak and mahogany.
It is obviously ideal to choose the colour that best matches
the wood you are using and the finished colour you require. However,
this is not vital as the colour can be altered later in the process.
Roy's
Tip: If you are building your furniture from scratch it is a
good idea - and much easier - to fill the timber first, i.e.
when it is in plank form.
The filler
is best applied with a lint free cloth. Always rub ACROSS the
grain (not with it). This ensures that the filler goes deep into
the wood.
Leave it until
it becomes dry (it will have a powdery texture). The drying time
should be given on the tin of the product you are using.
Roy's
Tip: Be patient - let it dry fully.
Once it is
dry the surface can be rubbed down - always with the grain -
with a piece of silicone coated rubbing down paper (approximately
220 grit). Do not use glass paper or sandpaper, as this will
leave a fine layer of residue on your work which is difficult
to clean.
Roy's
Tip: The numbers on rubbing down paper work on the basis of the
higher the number the smoother the paper (and the finish) - so
220 grit paper is used for preparation whereas 400 grit is finer
and used for finishing.
Continue to
rub down until silky to the touch and then remove the dust. A
tack cloth can be used after each sanding to remove dust. These
can be purchased from Dolls House Parade or your local hardware
store.
Roy's
Tip: To remove the dust use a vacuum cleaner with the brush attachment.
Simply blowing it will not be good enough.
Repeat the
process if necessary until you are completely happy with the
finish of the surface.
Staining
Now you are
ready to stain the wood. The stain and varnish should be applied
in an area, which is as dust free as possible. This will reduce
the amount of work you have to do
Roy's
Tip: An easy way to create your own "dust free workplace"
Go to the
bathroom and soak an old newspaper. Then lay the sheets out on
the floor. Turn on the shower (on full hot) and shut the door
and windows so that a good level of steam builds up. Then switch
off the water and let the steam clear and as the steam particles
sink to the floor (they are heavier than air) they will soak
up dust and deposit it on the newspaper. You will then be left
with a relatively dust free environment - ideal for staining
and varnishing.
Once again
we would recommend another Rustins product - this time Rustins
Spirit Stain. Various colours are available and can be bought
at your local DIY store.
Spirit stain
should be used because it penetrates deeper into the timber and
also dries quickly.
Roy's
Tip: Do not use water based stains as they will warp the timber
and raise the grain of your wood.
Mary's
Tip: Stain should be applied with a good quality flat paint brush.
The best type is an artist's brush and not a household or round
child's brush.
Always build
up the colour with several thin coats of stain rather than fewer
thick coats. This produces a better and more even finish. Wipe
off any surplus stain between coats with a soft brush or tissue.
Let each coat dry thoroughly before applying the next one.
Roy's
Tip: Be patient - let it dry fully.
When you are
applying stain it is difficult to cover the whole piece in one
go because you must hold your item while you are working. The
best way to deal with this problem - without leaving finger marks
- is to divide your job into two. Stain half at a time. Wait
until it dries then stain the other half. However, always complete
a full coat, i.e. 2 halves, before starting the next, otherwise
you will find it difficult to get a match over the whole item.
Mary's
Tip: Set yourself a routine. I always split my item into two
as follows: firstly hold the sides and stain the top, bottom,
back and inside; then hold the top and bottom and stain the sides.
Two or three
coats of stain should be sufficient.
Roy's Tip: Be patient - let it dry. If the final coat does
not dry before you begin the next stage you will move the stain.
Sealing
We would suggest
using a small pot of modelling varnish, i.e. Humbrol, as your
sealer. Either a satin or semi-matt finish will work well and
give a clear finish. If you prefer - French polish can also be
used (available from a DIY shop), but if this is used, remember
your finish will be slightly darker than with the varnish.
Both varnish
and French polish can be applied with a clean soft brush. It
is always better to use different brushes for each stage. However,
if you are using the same brush it must be cleaned thoroughly
each time.
Lacquer can
be used but is not recommended. This is because it dries too
quickly and may lift the stain if not allowed to dry in the correct
environment. The professionals use lacquer - but it does require
the right, specialist tools and conditions.
Once the piece
has been allowed to dry properly the "nibs" must be
rubbed down before applying the next coat.
"What's
a nib", I hear you cry. Well, a nib is a small particle
of dust or an air bubble trapped in the varnish, which if left,
will result in an uneven surface to your finish. Use a piece
of 400 grit paper to rub down to a smooth finish. Once again
use the vacuum cleaner to clear the dust.
Finish
You are now
nearly there!
With a soft
(lint free) cloth apply a small amount of good quality, wax furniture
polish - not spray polish. Let it dry and buff it up with a cloth.
By applying further coats of polish the level of gloss can be
built up as required.
Your piece
of furniture should now be ready to take pride of place in your
dolls house.
Roy's Tip: Don't forget it can take just as long to finish
a piece of furniture as it does to make it.
We hope this
feature has been interesting and for those who make their own
furniture pieces the tips will enable you to achieve better results
from your work. For those who prefer to buy their furniture maybe
next time you look at a piece of Roy's work (or that of any other
craftsman) you will now appreciate the amount of skill and work
that goes into creating the finished article.
Don't forget - the work of Roy and Mary can be seen in our shops
and if you have any queries that have not been answered by this
feature please contact us on
Tel:
020 8295 0688 or Fax: 020 8295 1061
e-mail:
info@dolls-house-parade.co.uk
We will do
our best to answer your questions, but if necessary we can, once
more, enlist the help of Roy and Mary.
If you need
any more help or advice, or have any suggestions for topics you
would like to see featured in the future, or you have your own
hints and tips you would like to share with your fellow miniaturists,
please e-mail us at:
enquiries@dollshouseparade.co.uk
